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Marzo 3 2023
The threads of Ukrainian identity

The thousand-year-old tradition of Ukrainian embroidery and its evolution in the modern context: from amulet against bad luck to symbol of national belonging

Stitch after stitch, the threads woven into the white fabric tell much more than an embroidered design. They are the symbol of Ukraine’s struggle for independence, the lucky talisman that protects whoever wears them. Between vyshyvanka – the traditional embroidered shirt – and various linens, the art of Ukrainian embroidery spans thousands of years and embodies one of the most identity-affirming expressions of the entire popular culture.

“It is our sacred amulet in this war,” Ukrainian President Zelensky himself said on the last Vyshyvanka Day, wearing the typical blouse embroidered on cuffs and collar. In support of the invaded nation, the Queen of Spain, Letizia Ortiz, and the President of the European Commission, Ursula von der Leyen, also decided to wear it. Each embroidery is different, but all tell a single story: that of the Ukrainian people.

The traditional Ukrainian dress: from amulet on cloth to Vyshyvanka Day

A white shirt or tunic, sometimes cinched at the waist, decorated on the collar, cuffs and shoulders with brightly coloured geometric, linear or floral embroidery. Vyshyvanka is characterised by more than two hundred types of embroidery techniques, styles and various ornaments, preserved for centuries as the lasting genetic code of the nation. The only one capable of silently surviving all the attempts at standardisation implemented by Russian domination.

After the dissolution of the Soviet regime, Ukrainians began to consider their traditional dress a symbol of national identity. In 2006, a flash mob by a student at the University of Chernivtsi gave birth to Vyshyvanka Day, since then celebrated throughout the country every third Thursday in May. The aim is to unite Ukrainians from all over the world, regardless of language, religion or residence. The sudden modernisation of vyshyvanka, however, reshapes some of its traditional characteristics.

Originally, the patterns embroidered on the fabric denoted a clear geographical origin and had apotropaic and auspicious significance. The intricate decorative motifs were believed to form a labyrinth in which evil spirits would be trapped, in a sort of magical shield for the wearer’s body. The embroidery embellished mainly cuffs and collar – the border points between the outside and the individual – or particular points such as the heart and arms, to protect the essence of the person and their every gesture. The stronger the feeling instilled by the person who embroidered the vyshyvanka, the more powerful its protection. This is why, more often than not, the dress was a wedding gift that the bride made for her groom during the months of engagement.

ricamo ucraino
Picture posted by the Instagram profile @my_ukrainianembroidery, use granted by the account holder and Ukrainian artisan Julia Bryl

The variation of Ukrainian embroidery and the meaning of decorations

All decorations are divided into three groups: plant or floral, geometric and zoomorphic. The motifs vary from region to region. Geometric motifs prevail in western Ukraine, while plant and floral motifs are prevalent in southern and eastern Ukraine. A distinction that is explained on the basis of different culture, natural landscapes and, in some cases, also the mentality of the population.

Flowers, branches and leaves reflect the purity and prosperity of the family. They signify constant and infinite renewal and combine magical and immortal beauty with incredible power. Geometric motifs, on the other hand, are mostly related to the beauty of Ukrainian nature and, as traditional embroidery has pagan roots, some of the symbols are intertwined with Slavic mythology. Finally, embroideries of animals and birds represent ritual symbols, most often depicted on towels or various pendants. For instance, doves and cocks are the characteristic ornaments of a wedding towel, while butterflies personify angels and swallows signify good news.

The threads of Ukrainian identity
Picture posted by the Instagram profile @olenkadidyk_ethnic_studio, use granted by the account holder and Ukrainian artisan Olenka Didyk